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| ixing It Up in Copenhagen
| 07/02/2010 | Name: Guest
Comments: IN a beer-loving city like Copenhagen, long ruled by the twin empires of Carlsberg and Tuborg, it wasn’t easy for Gromit Eduardsen, a British mixologist and proud “cocktail geek” who moved to the city in 2000, to introduce his trade. The very idea of a professional, full-time drink mixer, he says, was impossible for most of his customers to grasp.
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Cocktails in Copenhagen
“If you were behind a bar then, people would ask you, ‘What’s your proper job?’ or ‘What are you studying?’ ” Mr. Eduardsen recalled with a weary chuckle, as he waited for the evening rush at his two-year-old lounge, 1105, a dark and elegantly minimalist space. The cocktails on 1105’s menu that night included the Fleur de Champagne (Chambord, vodka, elderflower cordial and Champagne) and the Señor Hansi (tequila, agave syrup, lime juice, passion fruit and weissbier foam) — far cries from a pint of lager.
“It was all ’80s drinks,” Mr. Eduardsen said of the options he found when he first arrived in the city. “In the best bars in Copenhagen, where the high society would drink, you’d have people drinking strawberry daiquiris made with strawberry syrup and bottled lime juice and bad rum, all put through a blender — an alcoholic slush to get drunk on.”
But the last few years have witnessed a sea change in the habits of local imbibers. Thanks largely to an influx of foreign bartenders from more cocktail-savvy nations — mainly Britain — and the return of Danish bartenders who polished their mixing skills abroad, the cobbled lanes and picturesque waterways of the Danish capital are echoing with the rattle of shakers and clatter of long stirring spoons like never before.
Several bars with a serious devotion to original high-end cocktails have sprouted in recent years, along with the Copenhagen Cocktail Club (copenhagencocktailclub.dk), a group made up of three bartenders dedicated to “promoting and developing the art of drink and bar and cocktail culture in Denmark and across Scandinavia,” said a co-founder, Spaniard David Bernabeu (yes, that’s his actual full name), who bartended previously in London. When they’re not whipping up original recipes behind the bars at the Oak Room and Bar Rouge, two early pioneers of the new cocktail culture, the members advise other establishments on their drinks menus, train staff and hold lively competitions at a rotation of bars around town.
For the new generation of bartenders, paper umbrellas, blenders, generic booze and canned juices have all been sent down the drain in favor of refined glassware, uncommon spirits and a dedication to hand-crafting syrups, infusions and fruit mixers from scratch, often using local ingredients. Menu selections change regularly, and attending bartending seminars and cocktail conventions abroad is almost de rigueur. Cool interiors and sartorial style are no less important, with many of the bartenders revealing a fondness for the Prohibition-era vintage vests and long white jackets common to cocktail revivalists around the world.
Ruby, which opened in 2007, was another of the pioneers of the new Copenhagen cocktail scene, and remains an exemplar. In addition to boasting an impeccable location — an airy 18th-century town house outfitted with oriental rugs, chandeliers and fresh flowers — the bar has an innovative cocktail list that changes four times a year and is filled with exotic alcohols and housemade mixers.
“We’re based on a seasonal menu, like a gourmet restaurant,” explained the manager Nick Kobbernagel Hovind, a Dane, as he laid out a list of springtime drinks that included the Primavera (white grapefruit juice, Galliano L’Autentico herbal liqueur, Campari, and Agrapart & Fils Champagne) and the Ruby Daiquiri (rhubarb jam shaken with vanilla syrup, lime juice and Angostura rum from Trinidad). With his thin moustache and striped vest, he looked like a character from a 1920s silent film. “It’s all about getting fresh ingredients,” he said.
To help introduce Copenhageners to the finer points of cocktails, the bar holds periodic “Spirit Sessions” in its basement lounge, a plush retreat of Chesterfield couches and gilt-edged mirrors. The sessions are the boozehound’s answer to wine tastings. “It’s a chance to learn some cocktail history and taste some different products,” Mr. Hovind said. 1 2 Next Page »
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